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January 8, 2013

Quick tour of Savona: from the Train Station to the Port

Exercise yourself

If you visit Savona and the Italian Riviera, you might need to know how to quickly reach the Cruise Port from the Railway Station or vice versa. Here we go.

1. By train

If you arrive in Savona by train, the fastest way to go to the Port or the city center is by bus. It is cheap and fast: 1 for a ticket and 10 minutes for the trip. The bus stop is on the left side of the Railway Station and there is no way to overlook it when you go out from the main entrance of the station.
Here how it looks on the map:


View Railway Station in a larger map

There are three bus lines you can get on: 62, 7 and 5.

Line 62 goes directly to the Port called Palacrociere, while lines 7 and 5 don't but can bring you to the city center. Going to Palacrociere from the center by walk will take you not more than 10 minutes. Although it brings you directly to the port, bus 62 goes through a longer route as to show you the city.

Keep in mind that bus 62 runs only when cruise ships arrive on the port! To check this, visit the webside of Porto di Savona or check timetables here (just for double check).

If you get on line 7 or 5, you will have to cross the old dock, that is Vecchia Darsena.

savona_dock
Vecchia Darsena
There is a bridge you can go through to cut the route. But if you carry luggage with you, it might be a bit of inconvenience. And if the bridge is lifted for a boat to pass beneath, you will have to go round, just along the old dock with the boats or you can wait, of course, for the bridge to get down again.

A new bridge is been built now to replace the current one and hopefully, to make it more comfortable to the passengers.

savona_dock
Part of the construction site of the new bridge

The timetables of all bus lines including 62, 7 and 5 can be found on the webside of TPL which is the local public transport in the Province of Savona.

You can buy a bus ticket at any newsstand or bookstore. There are different colors of tickets, though, and you will need a pink ticket to get on bus 62, 7 or 5!

One more tip: buses don't stop unless you wave them.


2. By cruise ship

Alright, if you arrive in Savona with a cruise ship, you might need to catch a train for another place or walk around the city center. The best way is to get on bus 62 which will take you directly to the Railway Station. The bus stops in front of the Palacrociere, very convenient indeed. It passes through one of the main shopping streets of Savona, namely Via Paleocapa.

By the way, I found three different timetables of line 62 - one in a local newspaper, second in the webside of the local public transport, and third on a bus stop at Via Paleocapa ☻ After all, this is part of the unique Italian charm. And bus 62 runs frequently anyway.

via_paleocapa
View to a cruise ship from the bus stop at Via Paleocapa

If you'd like to walk and look around, the distance between Palacrociere and Via Paleocapa is very short. Just cross the bridge at the old dock, then a zebra and the shopping street is vertical to the clock tower shown on the picture. This is "Torretta" and is one of the symbols of the city of Savona. You can see the city's flag on it.

At the same time, you might want to go to the opposite direction from the port and then you'll find a medieval fortress, namely La Fortezza del Priamar.








Wherever you go or however you visit the Riviera delle Palme, I promise you, you'll be captivated!

January 4, 2013

Let's clean up our beach

Mare

I'm back to sunny Italy after I spent the winter holidays with my family. And I made a decision: to begin with a beach cleanup.

This is the beach next to which I live - a beautiful and tranquil place. I want it clean. You know, garbage thrown out on the sand is not an uncommon scene. So I decided to take a plastic bag and a pair of gloves every time I go on jogging and do some cleaning.

I was surprised by the variety of plastic bottles, packages, cigarette butts and other sorts of junks I found on the beach. I know that some of them came with the waves. However, if I want a clean beach for me and those close to me and not only for the tourists, then I can just do it.

Thus I can truly enjoy a view like this:

savona_beach

Do you know that Savona has a Blue Flag for the quality of the sea water, seaside services and cultural and sport activities related to the sea? Let's keep its beaches clean. If you like this, you can join me. The only rule is: one bag at a time.

December 19, 2012

Luna Park

Amare

Viva la vita!


I really like and strongly appreciate all those moments in life that make me feel like a child. And they are twice as valuable in times of trouble. I bet you know what I mean.

One of those moments is being in a Lunapaaaaark (aka amusement park).

Lunapark Italy is now in Savona with several attractions as part of its annual tour. It is placed at the sea garden next to Priamar Fortress and will stay in the town until January 20 2013.


Don't mind the cold, put on your coat and come along!

I so much enjoy the feeling of screaming while you spin wildly on the swing carousel, eating candy-floss and getting your hands dirty. Il mio innamorato shot a dozen tin cans and won a plush toy for me.

Teenagers rushed into the place, especially into the scream zone, dressed in a same way and walking in small groups of boys and girls.


Each attraction had its own DJ and one could hear a mix of music from far away. And of course, the fuss didn't go without at least one play of ... Gangnam style. I really like the bustle in a place like Lunapark! I even prefer it against circus because the main character in a Lunapark is you.

All this reminds me of a friend of mine who got married in an amusement park. She's a grown child, you see.

And since Christmas is coming and everyone must be happy (by bringing joy to someone next to you), I just want to wish you to:

Have a Very Marry Cherry Christmas!


December 14, 2012

Christmas Market

Piazza

What will you give your family for Christmas? Surprise, surprise...

Since I never know what to buy as a present, the "Fiera di Santa Lucia" (Fair of Santa Lucia) was of great help to me. This is a traditional fair held on December 13 in memory of Santa Lucia from Syracuse. She is a martyr who was killed in 304 year in the largest and bloodiest persecution of Christians (303-311) which happened in the Roman Empire during Diocletian's reign.

In Italy, there is a cult to Santa Lucia and a festival takes place in many cities across the country near the winter solstice which occurs at about December 21. It is considered that it actually replaces an old festival celebrating the light. Thus, the martyr is now a protector of the blind, ophthalmologists, electricians and masons...

On the streets of Savona, the day of Santa Lucia is marked with a fair for selling a wide variety of typical Italian products like cheese, salami, sweets, wine, souvenirs, clothes and many others. This is the so called Fiera di Santa Lucia.

fair_of_santa_lucia

So despite the cold weather, I spent half a day with the crowds to view the exhibition of goods and to choose something for my relatives and friends. You can find everything you need from Christmas decorations to toys for kids. And most of them are very cheap indeed. There are some hand-made products like embroideries and carpentry. You can also buy un panino (sandwich) or a donut to satisfy your hunger while walking. There are also many sweet temptations like sugar-made strawberries, lollipops and candy-floss - my favorite since my childhood!

I liked the Advent atmosphere of diverse crowd rushing to buy something for their favorite people or themselves, the noise of their voices and some heating devices, the smell of roast chestnuts mingled with fresh donuts, and the various colors of the goods.

fair_of_santa_lucia

A TV reporter accosted me but unfortunately, I didn't speak well Italian so I wasn't of much help to him... It would have been funny if I appeared on the Italian television, ha!

In fact, the Fair of Santa Lucia took place on Savona's shopping streets in the city center so you could always move aside to some of the shops or at least look at the windows.

After lunch with my partner, I resumed my expedition but soon got tired. The good news is that all of the presents are packed and ready. Santa is coming!

fair_of_santa_lucia

All that left is to provide in stock at home delicious sweets and spirits, of course 

Grappa, which is a local alcoholic drink made of grape, is very popular in Italy and it was funny to see men at the age of my grandfather carrying bags with a sign "I ♥ Grappa"!

Salute!

December 11, 2012

Swing at Brandale

Piazza

One Saturday evening, when the weather was really cold, we were invited by our friend Delia to go to a performance of Amici di Gjango.


Video made by Delia

It took place in a pub in a medieval tower and this is exactly what I'd like to show you here.

Let me start with the fact that the Medieval Tower of Brandale is the oldest building in Savona. It was built in the 12th century to defend the city of invaders. Its name in Italian sounds like this: Torre medievale del Brandale and means "light, fire". In the past, fire had burnt on the top of the tower and thus had served as a lighthouse. The place had also been a seat of the city's Podestá. I read in a document that Savona's independence from Genoa had been signed in the tower. 

It has been restored to its original size of 49.60 meters and now has been going through a renovation process again. A huge bell called "Campanassa" is kept inside the tower. The bell had been installed to call people to the parliament. Today, Torre del Brandale is also called after the Campanassa and is one of the symbols of the city. There are many interesting stories related to it and some other time I'll tell you more about them.

Brandale
This is a view to Torre del Brandale from Priamar Fortress.
Amici di Django played at Bar "Il Brandale" which is located, well, in the very tower of Brandale... We hurried for the gig and when we arrived, there was a crown on the square in front of the pub and the tower. It was the first time I visited this bar and I was truly surprised to discover that the band performed outside on a square called, of course, Piazza del Brandale! And it was in the winter!

People gathered around heaters spread among the tables on the square and in front of the musicians. And despite of the cold weather the mood was more than allegro! Of course you can always warm with a cup of aperitivo (as Italians use to say) and dances but heaters were a good addition for our cold fingers.

There were people coming and going, old and young, with dogs or children, some of them accidentally came across the event as they were passing through the square from the old town to the docks. I really liked a couple who came with that small retro-style Fiat and left inside it two little dogs... as guards, I presume.

Thus before I drained my cup of rum, I had realized that it's really cool to be on an open-air live performance in the winter.

Photo's been taken by Delia

Among the songs which Amici di Django played I recognized the Russian Ochi chyornye, When the saints go marching by Louis Armstrong, and of course, they played really good interpretations of Django Reinhardt himself. It was so nice to listen to them with a cup of drink and friends... and swing steps. 

Besides, drinking wine is very popular and a bottle of wine is not really expensive in most bars and restaurants. Some of them even offer "wine of the day" in their menu. If you prefer beer, then better order an imported one 

I also really like how they serve snacks with every drink you order here in pubs and cafes. When there is a special occasion, like the one that evening, they always prepare a buffet meal and it's free... oh yeah 

And one of the best things I really liked about the place is the view to the old dock with boats.

View to the old dock in daytime
Not to mention the smell of grilled meat on skewers and french fries! I truly enjoy food.

The grill was placed in a side street besides Il Brandale and some people claim that Christopher Columbus lived there in his parent's house a long time ago. However, I found no trace of this... So if someone has information, let them speak.

At some point I heard the big bell, Campanassa, tolling, probably to announce that it was late. We paid small attention though. And the swing continued.

So if you'd like to visit Torre del Brandale and the pub called after it, here's how to find it:


View Torre de Brandale in a larger map 

Next to it you can also find the Port of Savona and an office of Costa Crociere for cruise services. Just drag the map above up and right.
Ciao!

December 6, 2012

Riviera delle Palme

Mare

They call it Riviera delle Palme - this is Savona, the place I'm living now.

savona

А friend of mine once told me:
Life at a sea! What else would you need!?









Yes, winters could be a bit windy and sometimes it rains cats and dogs, but living by the sea can be a unique experience (I promise to write about mountains some day... perhaps I'll do it in the spring).

So do you know why they call Savona Riviera delle Palme? Logically, it is because there are lots of palm trees in the city. And as any other coastal city, Savona has its own sea garden which is situated next to the beach and close by Priamar Fortress. The garden is full with palms and doves just love to nest in the crowns of the trees. That's why the space around benches is full of pigeon droppings sometimes! You must fare attenzione!


This is the sea promenade that crosses the garden:

riviera_delle_palme

A lot of joggers pass by it, especially in the mornings and sometimes in the evenings too. This is a typical view inasmuch as the city is known for being an open-air gym. As a matter of fact, jogging will cost you no money at all. Everything you need is a pair of runners and a strong will to keep on doing it.

The sea promenade is an ideal trace. It goes from the west part of the city to Priamar Fortress. Some people prefer the beach, though, as I do. But it's not so convenient in bad weather.

savona_beach
Jogging on the beach gives you a chance to spot lots of beautiful architectures surrounded by palms and some sort of tree that is typical for the region but unfamiliar to me.


This particular building is situated at the west part of Savona.



And I have to tell you that there are people in all ages running at the beach or the promenade: from high school students in phys class, I come across at the sea garden, to retirees... Well, better running close by the sea than in the school yard.

In the evenings the sea garden is almost empty but there are still some joggers. You won't spot so many passengers then but stray cats. And views like this:

riviera_delle_palme

Alright, this is rather a sunset but I really liked it. It looks to a port at Vado Ligure, Bergeggi island and after it, but you cannot see them on the picture, are Spotorno and Noli. There is a small restaurant behind those five palms, right on the cliff. However, most of the seaside restaurants are closed in the autumns and winters with some exceptions where you can buy a takeaway pizza or have a glass of wine. And thus the cold winter days in Riviera delle Palme can also be charming and enjoyable.

December 1, 2012

Cuban Modern Art in Italy: "Senza Confini" exhibition

Piazza

It was raining like hell last week and I felt as I'm in Jurassic Park but it didn't stop me to visit "Senza Confini" exhibition which opened me a window to the Cuban modern art and I want to bring it to you.


Senza confini

"Senza Confini" means "Without borders". The exhibition, presenting the works of eight Cuban artists, was organized and managed by Massimiliano Toso.





Massimiliano Toso was born in Genoa and has been living in Cuba since 1997. He is an art manager and a promoter of the Cuban modern art. We hid from the cold rain in the cozy atmosphere of the small art gallery in Savona where I had a chance to sit and talk with him for a while. Here you can read his answers to some of my questions:

Massimiliano Toso

Q. How did you decide to move to Cuba?
MT: I left Italy when I was just over my 20 and I was travelling in a lot of different countries. I went to Cuba because I like this country the most of all. I reckon Havana is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
During the last 4-5 years in Cuba, I concentrated myself only in the art scene. Now I know everybody in this field there. I know thousands of artists who have enough skill and level to participate in an exhibition like "Senza Confini".



Niels Reyes' cover art "Nino de fuego" can be seen on this picture


Q. How did you choose the participants in the "Senza Confini" exhibition?
MT: All artists who participate have different styles of art. In this way I wanted to present the exhibition as a manifestation of the Cuban art and to bring these artists' works to the world.
I wanted to have a good mix of new and young artists altogether with very well experienced.
Senza confini
"Expectativa Nro 2" by Alejandro Gomez Cangas
For example, ALEJANDRO CANGAS is very young and has just finished university, while NOEL CRUZ has a career with over 30 years of experience. I also wanted to bring up artists who are not so famous yet. Actually, some of the well experienced have already had a large success in Europe and USA but the youngest still have a long way to go. This is the first exhibition in Italy to all of them.
Senza confini
"La casa de Ramona" on the left and "Encerrona" on the right,
by Noel Morera Cruz

Noel Cruz has a technique of using the pollution to make his paintings, says Massimiliano. He just sits with his canvas on the bay and the petrol that is spilled in the Gulf becomes his working material.





Q. What is it like to be an artist in Cuba?

Senza confini
"Otro día en la vida de Sara Thornton"
by Maykel Linares, born in 1979

MT: Being an artist in Cuba is the most liked profession by people because it is one of the few that can bring you to a good success in life or income and can give you an opportunity for travelling.
Since the revolution, the government has put a great amount of efforts to support and push the development of the art and the culture in general. They invest a lot in everything that concerns culture. Besides, we are talking about very well educated population.




Q. I've read some of the artist studied in Instituto Superior de Artes in Havana - Can you tell me about it?
Senza confini
On the left side is "Desconectando" by Vladimir De León Llaguno
MT: ISA? This is a large place, a large park with a campus where students live. They come from all over the country and study and live in the institute. There is a lot of space there and they do any kind of art from acting to music.


Q.  How did you come up with the idea for "Senza Confini" exhibition?

Senza confini
"La siesta" by Osvaldo González Aguiar on the left
and "Silicona" by Yunior Acosta on the right
MT: I work in this field in Cuba, organizing exhibitions there, promoting art and thus,  last winter I decided that maybe it was time to do something in Italy, my home country. So I came here and presented a project to the Foundation Palazzo Ducale in Genoa where I come from. The Foundation is one of the most well-reputed cultural institutions in Italy so I wanted to get off on the right foot. My project was approved and thus, I did the exhibition in Palazzo Ducale in the end of September. Then I was contacted by the municipality of Savona. They had seen the exhibition, had liked it and I moved it to Savona too.

Senza confini
Yunior Acosta's "De filósofo a chaman" on the left and
"En el parque 2 (La fuente)" by Niels Reyes

Yunior Acosta's satyr-like sculptures are made with synthetic resin and are hollow inside.








(At this moment a visitor came in to look around and I decided to left Massimiliano to his work with one final question)


Q. Do you have plans to do an exhibition of Cuban art in other countries? 
MT: Yes, definitely.  I have plans to organize individual exhibitions for some of the artists. I will start working on this in the spring next year.

Thank you for taking your time to share your thoughts!