Welcome to Savona and the Italian Riviera

Mare Amare

The season is open, the sun is shining and the sea is inviting. So take on your hat and let's have a bath on the beach!

Last days there was a red flag on the beach but the weather becomes better and better every single day.

The western beach of Savona is narrower than that beside the sea garden but is much much longer. So you can go for a long walk along the sea and pass by beautiful buildings in Art Nouveau style like Villa Zanelli.

You can see rows of long palms behind the beaches which is the reason why Savona is also called Riviera delle Palme. You can sit under their shadow in the sea garden and listen to the waves breaking against the shore.

If you choose the beach by the sea garden you will be very close to the Priamar Fortress and Piazza Garibaldi.

There are lot of bagni along the beach that administrate it and you can rent a place which basically includes a sundeck and umbrella and a wardrobe. You can rent it for a day, a week or the whole season and each bagno (a bath) has a price list with additional extras.

Each bagni has its distinctive color like red, blue or yellow so you can choose.

Bagni Savona

You can sit on the balcony in one of the bars along the beach and take a cup of real Italian espresso or a cocktail and enjoy the view.

Next to the bagni there are public areas and you can have a sunbath, a picnic or whatever and wherever you'd like. Piazza Garibaldi is right above one of the public beaches and will lead you straight to the city center.

So what more to say about this place where the sea is azzurro and full of joy.


You might also want to know:

• How to reach the city of Savona;
• Where to stay in Savona;
• And where to spend some money ☻

A walk through Riserva Naturale Regionale Adelasia

Exercise yourself

It's getting warmer and warmer with the spring. And if you enjoy hiking and walking in the woods, then Riserva Naturale Regionale Adelasia is a nice choice to spend a day or two.

It is about 25 km from Savona to there and you can choose either the highway or the country roads. Anyhow, if you are fond of winding narrow mountain roads, you'll find them on your way to Reserve Adelasia.

There are various hiking routes there: longer or shorter. We took 2 hour round trip among the woods.

We still could sense the remains of the last winter: the trees haven't been bloomed yet and there wasn't so much vegetation as expected in April. We even saw few piles of snow in the distance.

There were many streams that crossed the walking paths so it is a good idea to be well prepared with hiking shoes or with a spare pair of stockings at least ☺

And since "Adelasia" is a natural reserve, all of the species there - its flora and fauna - are protected by law. So don't tease the little creatures that you encounter...

But surely, you can admire them.

Alright, we started from the main entrance of Adelasia and followed trail No 1. We very quickly reached a refuge and a laboratory for environmental education (Cascina Miera) which was 767 meters above the sea level.

Cascina Miera

If you want to make a reservation for an environmental workshop, get a hold of the hut at:

CEA Province of Savona Via Amendola, 10 - 17100 Savona Tel 019/8313547 
E-mail: @ f.mordeglia provincia.savona.it

Website: www.provincia.savona.it


At the hut we had a quick snack and moved on. We passed through tall trees and lianas, a soft blanket of dry yellow leaves and moss, accompanied by the whistle of birds. We even saw a wildlife laboratory, probably used by the students from Cascina Miera. Next we reached a beautiful panoramic rock from which you could see the snowy peaks of the Alps.

I think I saw a hook in the rock and we assumed that probably some people had used it for climbing.

I must say the place is not crowded with tourists. You can enjoy the nature and your trip distracted only by the wild inhabitants of the forest...

After the rock we waded through shallow streams and at that point I regretted I hadn't taken a second pair of stockings with me. Anyway, dipping into cold spring water can be refreshing indeed ☺

Soon after that our trip finished. Route No 1 offers you quite easy excursion through the forest and you can take it for approximately 2 hours and a half. On your way you might find mineral stones and interesting plants and perhaps, you will rarely encounter animals since most of them avoid human contacts.

There are 4 major walking routes in Reserve Adelasia that last from 2 to 6 hours and vary in difficulty level. You can check them out here.

Buon viaggio!

A day in the countryside

Exercise yourself

One of the best-loved sides of Savona (for me), besides being a coastal city, is its relatively close position to the mountain. So take out your car or get on a bus number 11 and head for Quiliano village and the mountain.

Quiliano is located northwest from Savona and is a typical mountain village where people are friendly and during the spring, trees are covered with lovely blossoms.

Actually, our prime destination was la Chiesa San Michele Arcangelo which you can reach after travelling on a winding road after you exit Quiliano. It is about 10 km far from Savona and so, if you follow "Montagna" (mountain) signs on the road you won't be mistaken. However, in case you lose your way to the mountain, local people will be very open to help you...

A view to la Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo

We parked the car in an off-road area just below Montagna village (northwest after Quiliano) and reached the church after climbed a steep, but short, path among the woods. The actual date of its construction is unknown. However, the church is mentioned in old books dating from 1141. It is speculated that it was built by Lombards - German people that migrated to and in fact, invaded Italy and ruled a kingdom there.



It was closed on Sunday so we took our time to look around.


Montagna (Quiliano) is an amazingly tranquil place in the Ligurian Alps. Later, I found information on the hiking and bicycle routes in the area so you can check them out here.

The Ligurian Alps have a lot of paths leading to the summits and thus, it is a favored place for hiking treks, and which reminds me about a Chinese proverb saying that you can test whether someone is a real friend of you, if you only take them with you in the mountain... /take a minute to think about it/




With respect to us, visiting Quiliano and Montagna in a sunny day was quite a relaxation and an energizing experience.

First of all, you can get dizzy by the alternating scenes of colorific gardens and steep alleys. I have to admit that our strange presence barked the dogs in the village but people we met there were so friendly and seemed so lighthearted. I bet they have problems of their own as anyone else but do not look overtaken by them.

And we meowed the only cat (in the perimeter). I think it expected us to give it something delicious...










I spotted so many lovely creatures in both Quiliano and Montagna like goats (well, maybe devilish ☻), sheep, hens, I only heard a sound of what I thought might have been geese, and a pony that posed for my camera!

Moreover, I learned a new expression of greeting in Italian: Salve!

I've noticed that people in Italy have a sense for placing a group of junks together in such a way that they look just fantastic. For instance, a cellophane pack cut into pieces and tied to a fence to wave on the wind. Not to mention their genuine fondness of flowers, especially in Liguria where different kinds of flowers grow during the various seasons of the year.

At some point, a light rain began to fall down and took our little excursion to an end. We hurried through the downward path back to the car. And as we left the mountain, any trace of the rain vanished. We left behind the cheerful montagna and made a wish to visit it again.

What do you like to do on Easter?

Piazza

The Easter is preceded with processions on the streets of Savona. Children on age of 10 or so walk on the streets of the city carrying wooden stages of Biblical scenes and led by two priests. They stopped right under my balcony and sang songs to praise Christ.

This happened the day when we returned from our little trip to Bulgaria. And passing through ice and snow in Slovenia, we arrived at sunny Italy ☺

It rained cats and dogs on Saturday, but on Sunday, the Easter day, the spring came back to Liguria and we made our minds quickly - we took out the car and went out for a walk in Spotorno.





Spotorno is a splendid town in the Italian Riviera. That day, on Easter, its streets and piazze were crowded, its cafes and beaches were full with people. There was a musical orchestra marching on the streets and a market for vintage goods. I bought a small porcelain box for my mother.

We had a drink and snacks (a mix of sea food and meat) on the beach. I so much enjoy the excitement of the crowd during holidays. There was a feeling of allegro in the air. You are tempted to look behind the doors of a church or a little shop, to have a real Italian espresso in one of those cosy cafes in a colorful square or a really narrow street decorated with flowers.

When the sun began to go down we got back in Savona to prepare a delicious supper. You see, this is an inevitable ending for a wonderful Easter.

So where do you like to be on Easter: in the mountain, in the city, or on the beach? I think that being with your favorite ones is the best choice of all.

The Ligurian Sea

Mare

The spring has officially come this year and the mare is more magical and wavier than ever.

One morning I went on my regular jogging on the beach (we must keep ourselves in a good shape, mustn't we?) only to see that the waves were reaching the sand levees one after another, so I chose a different route for my running time. Besides, I took some time and did several shots of this amazing Ligurian Sea.

As usual, retirees were sitting on the benches at the beach talking about politics or whatever. Workers were preparing bagni di mare (sea baths) which you can see along the beach coupled with nice seaside restaurants.

People are working for the upcoming season and you can really sense Savona's metamorphosis.


Then I went to the breakwater to catch some nice waves crashing against it but I didn't see such amazing November waves as those I admired at Celle Ligure last year. Anyhow, the breakwater seemed to be a favorite place for dog owners to take their pets out on a walk as well as the beach is a popular choice for them, I must add.

The next day I saw a man sitting on a chair on the rocks musing by the sea. Nice.

On my way back I saw two surfers. The shore here is such that waves turn and crash very close to the beach. These are deep waters here and if you can't swim (as myself), you must be cautious.

After this chap got over the wave I walked past and got back home to do some other useful things...


Now when I have to travel for a while, I feel as I am going to miss the sea - a strange feeling that can be explained only by someone who lives by the sea, I believe.

Shopping fever in Savona

Piazza

What's behind the Gothic archivolts next to Il Torre Del Brandale?

There is the entrance to the old city of Savona, a maze of narrow Mediterranean streets, cosy cafés and ... many boutique shops.

The May sun drove me out of home on a walk to the town's old city. This is the place where you can feel the spirit of both the Mediterranean and the Italian culture as they are shown on the movies. And even more: you can sense the smell of bread and flowers, the colorful shop windows and the nice breeze coming from the docks.


Each street leads to smaller or bigger piazza and I, in my search for a hunting club (bird feathers in particular), chose a way that led me to Piazza della Rovere. (Perhaps you remember my short review of the history of Savona's major families. Well, one of them was Rovere.)

Just round the corner you will walk into the Rovere square.

The light building with the two columns is called Palazzo della Rovere. Alright, it was built by Cardinal Giuliano della Rovere himself (later Pope Julius II) in 1495. This is the largest building in the historical center of Savona and was designed by a Florentine architect, Giuliano da Sangallo. Noteworthy, the queen of Spain, Germana di Foix (wife of Ferdinand V) stayed in the palace during 1507. In fact, the building has a long and intriguing story which I will try to tell some other time.

The palace is located at Via Pia - a beautiful Renaissance street and the main alley of the old city.

Not to mention how many little shops are located on Via Pia - so many fashion shops besides souvenirs, fishing tackles, book stores and others. Well, I found some of them really expensive. Anyhow, this is the place where you can spend a bunch of money for really unique goods.

I carried on and via Pia led me to my most favorite cafe in Savona located at another square - Piazza della Maddalena. I'll tell you that Piazza della Maddalena is the heart of Savona's historical center and holds this name, obviously because of a shrine on the corner of a building. It is an eighteen century shrine and is dedicated to the "Lady of Mercy" which became the symbol of the old city.

Oh, I can just sit in this cafe and contemplate... You can have a cup of cappuccino and a croissant only for € 2.10. An old man was reading his newspaper there, a lady passed by for a quick coffee. By the way, Italians tend to drink a cup of coffee with one big swallow e fine.

After the pause, I continued my walk on Via Pia and thus I reached Via Paleocapa or the main shopping street in Savona. Here we are ☻

However, this story is about Via Pia and the little boutique shops on it. There you can also buy gifts to take back home. You can literally lose yourself along this street and its many branches where besides your shopping fever, you can see amazing architecture, portals, churches, taverns...

With respect to me, I didn't find feathers. Maybe I should look more thoroughly. Anyway, I had a great time. And talking about shopping, there is a detail to mention about. Most of the shops in Savona have a quite long lunch break - from 12.30 until 15.30 ☺ Italian way...

The Rock of Madonnetta

Mare

In a rainy day like today's I want to write about something bright and shine. So, here is a story about a rock in the sea.

Walking along the deep blue Ligurian sea from Savona to Albissola, you will see it, just a few meters from the shore, the Rock of Madonnetta, that is the rock of Virgin Mary.

On the top of the rock, there is a column with a small statue of Virgin Mary in it. The story tells that is was built in the far 1963 by someone Francesco di Nicola Grossi whose identity wasn't determined yet. The Madonna, also called a Star of the sea, is considered a guard of the entrance to the harbor, and is typically honored with many lights on May 21st. I'll try not to miss the event...

Many young people from Savona and Albissola have been baptized at the Rock of Madonnetta. Lots of people come here in the summer and jump from the top of the rock too. The place is ideal for scuba diving even if you are not very experienced.

We made a commitment, we will come back to this place in the summer and dive in those waters (after I learn to swim, of course!).

And there is a small wild beach close to the Madonnetta, an absolutely tranquil place in an out-of-the-season day.

So how to find it. Just walk on the main sea promenade that ties Savona and Albissola, the neighboring town, and you'll see it after a tunnel.


There is only one disturbing thing I read about: a plan for building a marine port around and next to the Rock of Madonnetta. Many civilians protest against this and I should agree with them. The place is so beautiful and appealing because of its wildness. It must stay as it is now ☺