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December 6, 2012

Riviera delle Palme

Mare

They call it Riviera delle Palme - this is Savona, the place I'm living now.

savona

А friend of mine once told me:
Life at a sea! What else would you need!?









Yes, winters could be a bit windy and sometimes it rains cats and dogs, but living by the sea can be a unique experience (I promise to write about mountains some day... perhaps I'll do it in the spring).

So do you know why they call Savona Riviera delle Palme? Logically, it is because there are lots of palm trees in the city. And as any other coastal city, Savona has its own sea garden which is situated next to the beach and close by Priamar Fortress. The garden is full with palms and doves just love to nest in the crowns of the trees. That's why the space around benches is full of pigeon droppings sometimes! You must fare attenzione!


This is the sea promenade that crosses the garden:

riviera_delle_palme

A lot of joggers pass by it, especially in the mornings and sometimes in the evenings too. This is a typical view inasmuch as the city is known for being an open-air gym. As a matter of fact, jogging will cost you no money at all. Everything you need is a pair of runners and a strong will to keep on doing it.

The sea promenade is an ideal trace. It goes from the west part of the city to Priamar Fortress. Some people prefer the beach, though, as I do. But it's not so convenient in bad weather.

savona_beach
Jogging on the beach gives you a chance to spot lots of beautiful architectures surrounded by palms and some sort of tree that is typical for the region but unfamiliar to me.


This particular building is situated at the west part of Savona.



And I have to tell you that there are people in all ages running at the beach or the promenade: from high school students in phys class, I come across at the sea garden, to retirees... Well, better running close by the sea than in the school yard.

In the evenings the sea garden is almost empty but there are still some joggers. You won't spot so many passengers then but stray cats. And views like this:

riviera_delle_palme

Alright, this is rather a sunset but I really liked it. It looks to a port at Vado Ligure, Bergeggi island and after it, but you cannot see them on the picture, are Spotorno and Noli. There is a small restaurant behind those five palms, right on the cliff. However, most of the seaside restaurants are closed in the autumns and winters with some exceptions where you can buy a takeaway pizza or have a glass of wine. And thus the cold winter days in Riviera delle Palme can also be charming and enjoyable.

December 1, 2012

Cuban Modern Art in Italy: "Senza Confini" exhibition

Piazza

It was raining like hell last week and I felt as I'm in Jurassic Park but it didn't stop me to visit "Senza Confini" exhibition which opened me a window to the Cuban modern art and I want to bring it to you.


Senza confini

"Senza Confini" means "Without borders". The exhibition, presenting the works of eight Cuban artists, was organized and managed by Massimiliano Toso.





Massimiliano Toso was born in Genoa and has been living in Cuba since 1997. He is an art manager and a promoter of the Cuban modern art. We hid from the cold rain in the cozy atmosphere of the small art gallery in Savona where I had a chance to sit and talk with him for a while. Here you can read his answers to some of my questions:

Massimiliano Toso

Q. How did you decide to move to Cuba?
MT: I left Italy when I was just over my 20 and I was travelling in a lot of different countries. I went to Cuba because I like this country the most of all. I reckon Havana is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
During the last 4-5 years in Cuba, I concentrated myself only in the art scene. Now I know everybody in this field there. I know thousands of artists who have enough skill and level to participate in an exhibition like "Senza Confini".



Niels Reyes' cover art "Nino de fuego" can be seen on this picture


Q. How did you choose the participants in the "Senza Confini" exhibition?
MT: All artists who participate have different styles of art. In this way I wanted to present the exhibition as a manifestation of the Cuban art and to bring these artists' works to the world.
I wanted to have a good mix of new and young artists altogether with very well experienced.
Senza confini
"Expectativa Nro 2" by Alejandro Gomez Cangas
For example, ALEJANDRO CANGAS is very young and has just finished university, while NOEL CRUZ has a career with over 30 years of experience. I also wanted to bring up artists who are not so famous yet. Actually, some of the well experienced have already had a large success in Europe and USA but the youngest still have a long way to go. This is the first exhibition in Italy to all of them.
Senza confini
"La casa de Ramona" on the left and "Encerrona" on the right,
by Noel Morera Cruz

Noel Cruz has a technique of using the pollution to make his paintings, says Massimiliano. He just sits with his canvas on the bay and the petrol that is spilled in the Gulf becomes his working material.





Q. What is it like to be an artist in Cuba?

Senza confini
"Otro día en la vida de Sara Thornton"
by Maykel Linares, born in 1979

MT: Being an artist in Cuba is the most liked profession by people because it is one of the few that can bring you to a good success in life or income and can give you an opportunity for travelling.
Since the revolution, the government has put a great amount of efforts to support and push the development of the art and the culture in general. They invest a lot in everything that concerns culture. Besides, we are talking about very well educated population.




Q. I've read some of the artist studied in Instituto Superior de Artes in Havana - Can you tell me about it?
Senza confini
On the left side is "Desconectando" by Vladimir De León Llaguno
MT: ISA? This is a large place, a large park with a campus where students live. They come from all over the country and study and live in the institute. There is a lot of space there and they do any kind of art from acting to music.


Q.  How did you come up with the idea for "Senza Confini" exhibition?

Senza confini
"La siesta" by Osvaldo González Aguiar on the left
and "Silicona" by Yunior Acosta on the right
MT: I work in this field in Cuba, organizing exhibitions there, promoting art and thus,  last winter I decided that maybe it was time to do something in Italy, my home country. So I came here and presented a project to the Foundation Palazzo Ducale in Genoa where I come from. The Foundation is one of the most well-reputed cultural institutions in Italy so I wanted to get off on the right foot. My project was approved and thus, I did the exhibition in Palazzo Ducale in the end of September. Then I was contacted by the municipality of Savona. They had seen the exhibition, had liked it and I moved it to Savona too.

Senza confini
Yunior Acosta's "De filósofo a chaman" on the left and
"En el parque 2 (La fuente)" by Niels Reyes

Yunior Acosta's satyr-like sculptures are made with synthetic resin and are hollow inside.








(At this moment a visitor came in to look around and I decided to left Massimiliano to his work with one final question)


Q. Do you have plans to do an exhibition of Cuban art in other countries? 
MT: Yes, definitely.  I have plans to organize individual exhibitions for some of the artists. I will start working on this in the spring next year.

Thank you for taking your time to share your thoughts!

November 26, 2012

Savona Historical Buildings II: Priamar Fortress


Piazza

Are you fond of medieval fortresses like those in the fantasy novels? I'll show you one in the city of Savona, the Riviera delle Palme.

Alright, when you go ashore from a cruise liner at the Palacrociere which is the cruise port of Savona or get off the train, then you can straightly go to the city historic center and visit it: Priamar Fortress or as Italians call it, La Fortezza del Priamar.


Priamar Fortress

The construction, composed of several levels including underground, corridors, terraces and gardens, and halls, was built between 1542 and 1544 on the ruins of medieval Castle, named Santa Maria. It was a Genoese Fortress in the past. Today it is a hotspot of Savona's cultural and social life.

Priamar Fortress

You can visit an Archaeological Museum, view works of Italian artists, have an afternoon nap at one of the benches or have a coffee at the Fortress' Cafe & Restaurant. Of course, you can just walk around and enjoy the views of the sea and the city. People often use it as a shortcut to the docks ☻ and as a place for dating too...













If you go on the roof you'll find a playground, a place for picnic and an old proud weapon:

Priamar Fortress















You know, every time I go to La Fortezza, I find something new. It's open from 9 am to 6.30 pm all year round. I've never stayed after that hour so I don't know what might happen if you find yourselves locked between the walls.

Anyway, the place is also open for dogs! So you can take there your pet (By the way, Italians go on shopping with their pets!). Just don't forget to clean up after your dog, please.

Priamar Fortress

At nice weather some people love jogging through the Fortress.


I told you, the place is a social hotspot.








Besides that, I think I've seen a wedding ceremony once. It seems to me the tents on the roof are intended for such special occasions. Take a glance:

Priamar Fortress















Yes, medieval castles and fortresses have always been romantic and mysterious to me. I imagine people who lived there and events they witnessed...

Today, some of the events even include entertaining programs for kids at Halloween. What better place than that, ha?

Priaman Fortress
Furthermore, one of the biggest entertainments during the summer, I reckon, are open-air theaters and a significant part of them take place at Piazzale del Maschio within the Fortress, namely the square on the picture:


The Archaeological Museum is located on the right side, just behind the pillars.

All cultural events that take place in Priamar are advertised on the front of it, at the main entrance so you can't miss them.








Well, after this short walkthrough, I hope you'll come to visit La Fortezza del Priamar some day. And you could even leave a sign on its medieval walls or benches ☻ Who knows... No bad intention to encourage misbehavior though.

And if you have ever visited medieval castles or fortresses, I'd like to invite you to share them here with a link and short description, or you can send me a picture and I will share it with the public for you.

November 21, 2012

Beaches of Liguria - continuing

Mare

I just love breakers crashing against rocks. Like most of you, I believe.

Celle Ligure

This was one of the most astonishing breakers I had ever enjoyed. We were standing at a rocky breakwater trying not to fall into the sea (I still can't swim), watching how waves were breaking on the wall of the road. I'm telling you, the water is about to undermine its foundation.

The road I'm talking about is SS1, direction: Genova, at Riviera Ligure di Ponente.

This is an awesome way to go. And what's more, you can travel by walk from Savona to here and even farther. Cool, isn't it? You see those two men at the top right corner I accidentally shot on my photo:

Celle Ligure


Well, they stayed at the embankment next to SS1 which was right above the shore. I also loved the benches at the embankment - you could just sit there, have a drink and enjoy the view (and sounds).



And since the theme is about beaches after all, the one "behind the scene" is Celle Ligure's. The beach was quite narrow at this end and it seemed to me that the waves were trying to flood us. So you walk really carefully and tightly to the wall, which can be fun indeed.☻



If you wonder, Celle is a neighboring town to Savona you can reach by walk. It has gained a Blue Flag which is an indicator for commune's sustainable tourism development, improvement of life quality and care for the ecosystem...


We traveled a bit further and then came back through a tunnel where there was an exhibition of "math artists!" No kidding.


I'll try to illustrate what it was about:

Well, some of the works resembled such kind of number mosaics (but colorful graphics and lithographs, though). Can you guess what this table is?...





Back at the sea promenade we saw a signboard of a surf school. Kitesurfing, windsurfing, surfing & sailing are popular sports in the town but I heard that surfing was a bit risky because the spot was located close by a cliff. Waves break in front of it and arrive at the beach. Anyway, if you are fond of it, check out web portals like Windfinder.

So, this is all about Celle Ligure for now. Next time I'll tell you something about Riviera delle Palme. Wait for it!

P.S. By the way you'll hardly find pizza if you visit the town out of the season, especially at lunch time.

November 14, 2012

Beaches of Liguria


Mare

In a sunny day after the stormy Halloween, we headed toward Spotorno and next to it we found Noli.

So if you dream for long beaches and medieval castles, these small towns in Riviera di Ponente are just for you. Riviera di Ponente or the "Coast of the setting sun" is a Ligurian area between Genoa and the French border.

Besides, the road that crosses it is one of the most beautiful in Europe, I reckon. This is Via Aurelia or SS1 on the road maps. Even just driving on it worth the effort. It goes all the way along the sea and takes you to Sanremo, and is popular for road cycling.


Bike route 542828 - powered by Bikemap 

Check out all bike routes in the region at Bikemap.

There were lots of cars and bicyclers coming and going in both directions. We passed by a bunch of chopper riders on the way surrounded by high vertical cliffs, deep blue sea and medieval towers on the hills - guards of honor. A crooked and winding road - this is Via Aurelia and a dream for every adventurer. I was totally captivated by the roadside views and simply wanted to get off the car and continue by walk but it wasn't possible.

And so we reached Spotorno: a small and poor coastal country in an ancient times, often a subject of bitter disputes between the powerful neighboring municipalities - Savona & Noli, now it is a top tourist destination in the Italian Riviera.

And there is a reason for this: pure water and long beaches, a labyrinth of narrow streets and cozy little shops and cafes. It seemed to me that the whole city life was on the streets - social gatherings, hairdressers, craftsmen. You had the feeling that everyone knows everybody.

Spotorno

Spotorno's life has always been tightly connected to the sea. In the past, boats transported goods like wine, paintings and lemons to Sicily, Sardinia and France. Now a view of fishermen on the beach is a common scene.

This sausage dog, with his back to me, was a little curious creature and I knew the representatives of the breed were brave hunters.

The island on the picture is Bergeggi and on the shore against it you can find one of the purest blue beaches in the region. What's more, you can reach it by walk from Spotorno.

The beach was empty then but I bet it's full with people during the season. However, you must watch out for your dignity: There was a sign on the promenade which informed that walking around the town in a swimsuit is strictly prohibited!

Well...

Here's a greeting from Spotorno friend, full of joy as the city itself:



And then comes Noli: steep streets, gloomy castles, lots of olive trees and uncommonly tranquil place to be in November.

We entered a church there. It was empty and silent, preparing for a service that was going to begin in 30 minutes. A nun passed by and greeted us on the main entrance. The whole place had an aura of something magnificent, romantic and melancholic at the same time (unlike the cheerful Spotorno).

You know, although the temple looked at the beach and a sea alley, and there wasn't any kind of sign to indicate that hanging around in a swimwear was restricted, I couldn't quite imagine to show up in a swimming costume around it...

So we crossed the main street, that was Via Aurelia, and there it was - a choppy dark blue-green sea and big foaming waves! It attracted me like a magnet.

Noli

Our Spotorno friend told us afterwards that this was the town with the most peaceful and transparent blue waters around the west coast of Liguria. Yet, that day we saw a splendid wavy sea (due to the autumn weather, my best guess).



If you are curious about the town, the name "Noli" has a Greek origin and means "new city". Its story tells us, and this is a less-known fact, that the village (slightly less than 3000 citizens nowadays) was an ancient maritime republic. It is even considered that Christopher Columbus took "lezioni di mare" (lessons of the sea) here in year 1474!

Mare: You should know that you can easily sink into deep water at the Ligurian beaches for reason of the sea slope. So if you prefer shallow water, then you might want to visit the east coast of Italy.

In order to plan your Vacanza at Liguria, just browse a tour guide like TripAdvisor.

☼

November 9, 2012

Italian Lesson II

Exercise yourself


This time you are going to learn common computer jargon in Italian. Here's how:

-are- is the most frequent verb stem in the Italian language. Thus, click with a mouse is:

cliccare

Browse in internet is:

browsare

And chat with a friend becomes:

chattare

As easy as that!

Now when you have this knowledge with you, guess the following (There's a pitfall!):
  1. downlod_ _ _

  2. debug_ _ _ _

  3. program_ _ _ _

And if you want to call your grandma, you'll just telefonare.


♦♦♦

November 6, 2012

Savona historical buildings I: Villa Zanelli

Piazza

First time I saw it, the day was cold and windy and we were walking along the beach: Villa Zanelli. 

It is so amazingly beautiful and breathtaking that you can just stay there and gaze at it. So it worth it to tell you its story:

La storia della Villa:

Villa Zanelli

Villa Zanelli was built in 1907 as a residence of a sea captain called Nicolo Zanelli in the outskirts of Savona. This fabulous building was work of Gottardo Gussoni, a student of Pietro Fenoglio who was one of the most significant engineers and architects of the Italian Art Nouveau (Modern Style in UK). Now the Villa is also known as a "sea whale sanctuary" and a shining example of the Arte Liberty.

Villa Zanelli


Zanelli's family lived in the Villa until 1933 when they sold it to Municipality of Milan. The villa had direct communication with the sea. Cement and stone flowers stood against the waves and the sea water filled the flowers' beds.

During the Second World War it was used as a field hospital. You can still see red crosses on its walls.

Villa Zanelli

It functioned as a center for treatment of heart disease from 1967 until 1998. The degradation of the building led to collapse of one of the ceilings in the first floor. Since then the beauty has been staying abandoned.

Have a closer look:
Villa Zanelli


On such an out-of-the-season day, when I took these pictures, the beach was almost deserted. A caterpillar tractor was hurrying to raise levees (a greeting for fans) on the beach. When I went back I saw that the levees blocked my way. A sad feeling might come upon you at such a moment. I really hope that debates on the Villa Zanelli's future will end at its full restoration and shine.