Savona Historical Buildings II: Priamar Fortress

Piazza

Are you fond of medieval fortresses like those in the fantasy novels? I'll show you one in the city of Savona, the Riviera delle Palme.

Alright, when you go ashore from a cruise liner at the Palacrociere which is the cruise port of Savona or get off the train, then you can straightly go to the city historic center and visit it: Priamar Fortress or as Italians call it, La Fortezza del Priamar.

The construction, composed of several levels including underground, corridors, terraces and gardens, and halls, was built between 1542 and 1544 on the ruins of medieval Castle, named Santa Maria. It was a Genoese Fortress in the past. Today it is a hotspot of Savona's cultural and social life.



You can visit an Archaeological Museum, view works of Italian artists, have an afternoon nap at one of the benches or have a coffee at the Fortress' Cafe & Restaurant. Of course, you can just walk around and enjoy the views of the sea and the city. People often use it as a shortcut to the docks ☻ and as a place for dating too...













If you go on the roof you'll find a playground, a place for picnic and an old proud weapon:

You know, every time I go to La Fortezza, I find something new. It's open from 9 am to 6.30 pm all year round. I've never stayed after that hour so I don't know what might happen if you find yourselves locked between the walls.

Anyway, the place is also open for dogs! So you can take there your pet (By the way, Italians go on shopping with their pets!). Just don't forget to clean up after your dog, please.



At nice weather some people love jogging through the Fortress.

I told you, the place is a social hotspot.

Besides that, I think I've seen a wedding ceremony once. It seems to me the tents on the roof are intended for such special occasions. Take a glance:

Yes, medieval castles and fortresses have always been romantic and mysterious to me. I imagine people who lived there and events they witnessed...

Today, some of the events even include entertaining programs for kids at Halloween. What better place than that, ha?

Furthermore, one of the biggest entertainments during the summer, I reckon, are open-air theaters and a significant part of them take place at Piazzale del Maschio within the Fortress, namely the square on the picture:

The Archaeological Museum is located on the right side, just behind the pillars.

All cultural events that take place in Priamar are advertised on the front of it, at the main entrance so you can't miss them.

Well, after this short walkthrough, I hope you'll come to visit La Fortezza del Priamar some day. And you could even leave a sign on its medieval walls or benches ☻ Who knows... No bad intention to encourage misbehavior though.

And if you have ever visited medieval castles or fortresses, I'd like to invite you to share them here with a link and short description, or you can send me a picture and I will share it with the public for you.

Beaches of Liguria - continuing

Mare

I just love breakers crashing against rocks. Like most of you, I believe.

This was one of the most astonishing breakers I had ever enjoyed. We were standing at a rocky breakwater trying not to fall into the sea (I still can't swim), watching how waves were breaking on the wall of the road. I'm telling you, the water is about to undermine its foundation.

The road I'm talking about is SS1, direction: Genova, at Riviera Ligure di Ponente.

This is an awesome way to go. And what's more, you can travel by walk from Savona to here and even farther. Cool, isn't it? You see those two men at the top right corner I accidentally shot on my photo:

Well, they stayed at the embankment next to SS1 which was right above the shore. I also loved the benches at the embankment - you could just sit there, have a drink and enjoy the view (and sounds).



And since the theme is about beaches after all, the one "behind the scene" is Celle Ligure's. The beach was quite narrow at this end and it seemed to me that the waves were trying to flood us. So you walk really carefully and tightly to the wall, which can be fun indeed.☻



If you wonder, Celle is a neighboring town to Savona you can reach by walk. It has gained a Blue Flag which is an indicator for commune's sustainable tourism development, improvement of life quality and care for the ecosystem...

We traveled a bit further and then came back through a tunnel where there was an exhibition of "math artists!" No kidding.

I'll try to illustrate what it was about:

Well, some of the works resembled such kind of number mosaics (but colorful graphics and lithographs, though). Can you guess what this table is?...





Back at the sea promenade we saw a signboard of a surf school. Kitesurfing, windsurfing, surfing & sailing are popular sports in the town but I heard that surfing was a bit risky because the spot was located close by a cliff. Waves break in front of it and arrive at the beach. Anyway, if you are fond of it, check out web portals like Windfinder.

So, this is all about Celle Ligure for now. Next time I'll tell you something about Riviera delle Palme. Wait for it!

P.S. By the way you'll hardly find pizza if you visit the town out of the season, especially at lunch time.

Beaches of Liguria

Mare

In a sunny day after the stormy Halloween, we headed toward Spotorno and next to it we found Noli.

So if you dream for long beaches and medieval castles, these small towns in Riviera di Ponente are just for you. Riviera di Ponente or the "Coast of the setting sun" is a Ligurian area between Genoa and the French border.

Besides, the road that crosses it is one of the most beautiful in Europe, I reckon. This is Via Aurelia or SS1 on the road maps. Even just driving on it worth the effort. It goes all the way along the sea and takes you to Sanremo, and is popular for road cycling.

Bike route 542828 - powered by Bikemap 

Check out all bike routes in the region at Bikemap.

There were lots of cars and bicyclers coming and going in both directions. We passed by a bunch of chopper riders on the way surrounded by high vertical cliffs, deep blue sea and medieval towers on the hills - guards of honor. A crooked and winding road - this is Via Aurelia and a dream for every adventurer. I was totally captivated by the roadside views and simply wanted to get off the car and continue by walk but it wasn't possible.

And so we reached Spotorno: a small and poor coastal country in an ancient times, often a subject of bitter disputes between the powerful neighboring municipalities - Savona & Noli, now it is a top tourist destination in the Italian Riviera.

And there is a reason for this: pure water and long beaches, a labyrinth of narrow streets and cozy little shops and cafes. It seemed to me that the whole city life was on the streets - social gatherings, hairdressers, craftsmen. You had the feeling that everyone knows everybody.

Spotorno's life has always been tightly connected to the sea. In the past, boats transported goods like wine, paintings and lemons to Sicily, Sardinia and France. Now a view of fishermen on the beach is a common scene.

This sausage dog, with his back to me, was a little curious creature and I knew the representatives of the breed were brave hunters.

The island on the picture is Bergeggi and on the shore against it you can find one of the purest blue beaches in the region. What's more, you can reach it by walk from Spotorno.

The beach was empty then but I bet it's full with people during the season. However, you must watch out for your dignity: There was a sign on the promenade which informed that walking around the town in a swimsuit is strictly prohibited!

Well...

Here's a greeting from Spotorno friend, full of joy as the city itself:

And then comes Noli: steep streets, gloomy castles, lots of olive trees and uncommonly tranquil place to be in November.

We entered a church there. It was empty and silent, preparing for a service that was going to begin in 30 minutes. A nun passed by and greeted us on the main entrance. The whole place had an aura of something magnificent, romantic and melancholic at the same time (unlike the cheerful Spotorno).

You know, although the temple looked at the beach and a sea alley, and there wasn't any kind of sign to indicate that hanging around in a swimwear was restricted, I couldn't quite imagine to show up in a swimming costume around it...

So we crossed the main street, that was Via Aurelia, and there it was - a choppy dark blue-green sea and big foaming waves! It attracted me like a magnet.

Our Spotorno friend told us afterwards that this was the town with the most peaceful and transparent blue waters around the west coast of Liguria. Yet, that day we saw a splendid wavy sea (due to the autumn weather, my best guess).

If you are curious about the town, the name "Noli" has a Greek origin and means "new city". Its story tells us, and this is a less-known fact, that the village (slightly less than 3000 citizens nowadays) was an ancient maritime republic. It is even considered that Christopher Columbus took "lezioni di mare" (lessons of the sea) here in year 1474!

Mare: You should know that you can easily sink into deep water at the Ligurian beaches for reason of the sea slope. So if you prefer shallow water, then you might want to visit the east coast of Italy.

In order to plan your Vacanza at Liguria, just browse a tour guide like TripAdvisor.

☼

Italian Lesson II

Exercise yourself

This time you are going to learn common computer jargon in Italian. Here's how:

-are- is the most frequent verb stem in the Italian language. Thus, click with a mouse is:

cliccare

Browse in internet is:

browsare

And chat with a friend becomes:

chattare

As easy as that!

Now when you have this knowledge with you, guess the following (There's a pitfall!):

1. downlod_ _ _


2. debug_ _ _ _


3. program_ _ _ _

And if you want to call your grandma, you'll just telefonare.

♦♦♦

Savona historical buildings I: Villa Zanelli

Piazza

First time I saw it, the day was cold and windy and we were walking along the beach: Villa Zanelli. 

It is so amazingly beautiful and breathtaking that you can just stay there and gaze at it. So it worth it to tell you its story:

La storia della Villa:

Villa Zanelli was built in 1907 as a residence of a sea captain called Nicolo Zanelli in the outskirts of Savona. This fabulous building was work of Gottardo Gussoni, a student of Pietro Fenoglio who was one of the most significant engineers and architects of the Italian Art Nouveau (Modern Style in UK). Now the Villa is also known as a "sea whale sanctuary" and a shining example of the Arte Liberty.

Zanelli's family lived in the Villa until 1933 when they sold it to Municipality of Milan. The villa had direct communication with the sea. Cement and stone flowers stood against the waves and the sea water filled the flowers' beds.

During the Second World War it was used as a field hospital. You can still see red crosses on its walls.

It functioned as a center for treatment of heart disease from 1967 until 1998. The degradation of the building led to collapse of one of the ceilings in the first floor. Since then the beauty has been staying abandoned.

Have a closer look:

On such an out-of-the-season day, when I took these pictures, the beach was almost deserted. A caterpillar tractor was hurrying to raise levees (a greeting for fans) on the beach. When I went back I saw that the levees blocked my way. A sad feeling might come upon you at such a moment. I really hope that debates on the Villa Zanelli's future will end at its full restoration and shine.