Luna Park

Amare

Viva la vita!

I really like and strongly appreciate all those moments in life that make me feel like a child. And they are twice as valuable in times of trouble. I bet you know what I mean.

One of those moments is being in a Lunapaaaaark (aka amusement park).

Lunapark Italy is now in Savona with several attractions as part of its annual tour. It is placed at the sea garden next to Priamar Fortress and will stay in the town until January 20 2013.

Don't mind the cold, put on your coat and come along!

I so much enjoy the feeling of screaming while you spin wildly on the swing carousel, eating candy-floss and getting your hands dirty. Il mio innamorato shot a dozen tin cans and won a plush toy for me.

Teenagers rushed into the place, especially into the scream zone, dressed in a same way and walking in small groups of boys and girls.

Each attraction had its own DJ and one could hear a mix of music from far away. And of course, the fuss didn't go without at least one play of ... Gangnam style. I really like the bustle in a place like Lunapark! I even prefer it against circus because the main character in a Lunapark is you.

All this reminds me of a friend of mine who got married in an amusement park. She's a grown child, you see.

And since Christmas is coming and everyone must be happy (by bringing joy to someone next to you), I just want to wish you to:

Have a Very Marry Cherry Christmas!

Christmas Market

Piazza

What will you give your family for Christmas? Surprise, surprise...

Since I never know what to buy as a present, the "Fiera di Santa Lucia" (Fair of Santa Lucia) was of great help to me. This is a traditional fair held on December 13 in memory of Santa Lucia from Syracuse. She is a martyr who was killed in 304 year in the largest and bloodiest persecution of Christians (303-311) which happened in the Roman Empire during Diocletian's reign.

In Italy, there is a cult to Santa Lucia and a festival takes place in many cities across the country near the winter solstice which occurs at about December 21. It is considered that it actually replaces an old festival celebrating the light. Thus, the martyr is now a protector of the blind, ophthalmologists, electricians and masons...

On the streets of Savona, the day of Santa Lucia is marked with a fair for selling a wide variety of typical Italian products like cheese, salami, sweets, wine, souvenirs, clothes and many others. This is the so called Fiera di Santa Lucia.

So despite the cold weather, I spent half a day with the crowds to view the exhibition of goods and to choose something for my relatives and friends. You can find everything you need from Christmas decorations to toys for kids. And most of them are very cheap indeed. There are some hand-made products like embroideries and carpentry. You can also buy un panino (sandwich) or a donut to satisfy your hunger while walking. There are also many sweet temptations like sugar-made strawberries, lollipops and candy-floss - my favorite since my childhood!

I liked the Advent atmosphere of diverse crowd rushing to buy something for their favorite people or themselves, the noise of their voices and some heating devices, the smell of roast chestnuts mingled with fresh donuts, and the various colors of the goods.

A TV reporter accosted me but unfortunately, I didn't speak well Italian so I wasn't of much help to him... It would have been funny if I appeared on the Italian television, ha!

In fact, the Fair of Santa Lucia took place on Savona's shopping streets in the city center so you could always move aside to some of the shops or at least look at the windows.

After lunch with my partner, I resumed my expedition but soon got tired. The good news is that all of the presents are packed and ready. Santa is coming!

All that left is to provide in stock at home delicious sweets and spirits, of course ☻

Grappa, which is a local alcoholic drink made of grape, is very popular in Italy and it was funny to see men at the age of my grandfather carrying bags with a sign "I ♥ Grappa"!

Salute!

Swing at Brandale

Piazza

One Saturday evening, when the weather was really cold, we were invited by our friend Delia to go to a performance of Amici di Gjango.


Video made by Delia

It took place in a pub in a medieval tower and this is exactly what I'd like to show you here.

Let me start with the fact that the Medieval Tower of Brandale is the oldest building in Savona. It was built in the 12th century to defend the city of invaders. Its name in Italian sounds like this: Torre medievale del Brandale and means "light, fire". In the past, fire had burnt on the top of the tower and thus had served as a lighthouse. The place had also been a seat of the city's Podestá. I read in a document that Savona's independence from Genoa had been signed in the tower. 

It has been restored to its original size of 49.60 meters and now has been going through a renovation process again. A huge bell called "Campanassa" is kept inside the tower. The bell had been installed to call people to the parliament. Today, Torre del Brandale is also called after the Campanassa and is one of the symbols of the city. There are many interesting stories related to it and some other time I'll tell you more about them.

This is a view to Torre del Brandale from Priamar Fortress.

Amici di Django played at Bar "Il Brandale" which is located, well, in the very tower of Brandale... We hurried for the gig and when we arrived, there was a crown on the square in front of the pub and the tower. It was the first time I visited this bar and I was truly surprised to discover that the band performed outside on a square called, of course, Piazza del Brandale! And it was in the winter!

People gathered around heaters spread among the tables on the square and in front of the musicians. And despite of the cold weather the mood was more than allegro! Of course you can always warm with a cup of aperitivo (as Italians use to say) and dances but heaters were a good addition for our cold fingers.

There were people coming and going, old and young, with dogs or children, some of them accidentally came across the event as they were passing through the square from the old town to the docks. I really liked a couple who came with that small retro-style Fiat and left inside it two little dogs... as guards, I presume.

Thus before I drained my cup of rum, I had realized that it's really cool to be on an open-air live performance in the winter.

Photo's been taken by Delia

Among the songs which Amici di Django played I recognized the Russian Ochi chyornye, When the saints go marching by Louis Armstrong, and of course, they played really good interpretations of Django Reinhardt himself. It was so nice to listen to them with a cup of drink and friends... and swing steps. 

Besides, drinking wine is very popular and a bottle of wine is not really expensive in most bars and restaurants. Some of them even offer "wine of the day" in their menu. If you prefer beer, then better order an imported one ☺

I also really like how they serve snacks with every drink you order here in pubs and cafes. When there is a special occasion, like the one that evening, they always prepare a buffet meal and it's free... oh yeah ☺

And one of the best things I really liked about the place is the view to the old dock with boats.

View to the old dock in daytime

Not to mention the smell of grilled meat on skewers and french fries! I truly enjoy food.

The grill was placed in a side street besides Il Brandale and some people claim that Christopher Columbus lived there in his parent's house a long time ago. However, I found no trace of this... So if someone has information, let them speak.

At some point I heard the big bell, Campanassa, tolling, probably to announce that it was late. We paid small attention though. And the swing continued.

So if you'd like to visit Torre del Brandale and the pub called after it, here's how to find it:


View Torre de Brandale in a larger map 

Next to it you can also find the Port of Savona and an office of Costa Crociere for cruise services. Just drag the map above up and right.

Ciao!

Riviera delle Palme

Mare

They call it Riviera delle Palme - this is Savona, the place I'm living now.



А friend of mine once told me:

Life at a sea! What else would you need!?

Yes, winters could be a bit windy and sometimes it rains cats and dogs, but living by the sea can be a unique experience (I promise to write about mountains some day... perhaps I'll do it in the spring).

So do you know why they call Savona Riviera delle Palme? Logically, it is because there are lots of palm trees in the city. And as any other coastal city, Savona has its own sea garden which is situated next to the beach and close by Priamar Fortress. The garden is full with palms and doves just love to nest in the crowns of the trees. That's why the space around benches is full of pigeon droppings sometimes! You must fare attenzione!

This is the sea promenade that crosses the garden:

A lot of joggers pass by it, especially in the mornings and sometimes in the evenings too. This is a typical view inasmuch as the city is known for being an open-air gym. As a matter of fact, jogging will cost you no money at all. Everything you need is a pair of runners and a strong will to keep on doing it.

The sea promenade is an ideal trace. It goes from the west part of the city to Priamar Fortress. Some people prefer the beach, though, as I do. But it's not so convenient in bad weather.


Jogging on the beach gives you a chance to spot lots of beautiful architectures surrounded by palms and some sort of tree that is typical for the region but unfamiliar to me.

This particular building is situated at the west part of Savona.

And I have to tell you that there are people in all ages running at the beach or the promenade: from high school students in phys class, I come across at the sea garden, to retirees... Well, better running close by the sea than in the school yard.

In the evenings the sea garden is almost empty but there are still some joggers. You won't spot so many passengers then but stray cats. And views like this:

Alright, this is rather a sunset but I really liked it. It looks to a port at Vado Ligure, Bergeggi island and after it, but you cannot see them on the picture, are Spotorno and Noli. There is a small restaurant behind those five palms, right on the cliff. However, most of the seaside restaurants are closed in the autumns and winters with some exceptions where you can buy a takeaway pizza or have a glass of wine. And thus the cold winter days in Riviera delle Palme can also be charming and enjoyable.

Cuban Modern Art in Italy: "Senza Confini" exhibition

Piazza

It was raining like hell last week and I felt as I'm in Jurassic Park but it didn't stop me to visit "Senza Confini" exhibition which opened me a window to the Cuban modern art and I want to bring it to you.




"Senza Confini" means "Without borders". The exhibition, presenting the works of eight Cuban artists, was organized and managed by Massimiliano Toso.





Massimiliano Toso was born in Genoa and has been living in Cuba since 1997. He is an art manager and a promoter of the Cuban modern art. We hid from the cold rain in the cozy atmosphere of the small art gallery in Savona where I had a chance to sit and talk with him for a while. Here you can read his answers to some of my questions:

Q. How did you decide to move to Cuba?

MT: I left Italy when I was just over my 20 and I was travelling in a lot of different countries. I went to Cuba because I like this country the most of all. I reckon Havana is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

During the last 4-5 years in Cuba, I concentrated myself only in the art scene. Now I know everybody in this field there. I know thousands of artists who have enough skill and level to participate in an exhibition like "Senza Confini".

Niels Reyes' cover art "Nino de fuego" can be seen on this picture

Q. How did you choose the participants in the "Senza Confini" exhibition?

MT: All artists who participate have different styles of art. In this way I wanted to present the exhibition as a manifestation of the Cuban art and to bring these artists' works to the world.

I wanted to have a good mix of new and young artists altogether with very well experienced.

"Expectativa Nro 2" by Alejandro Gomez Cangas

For example, ALEJANDRO CANGAS is very young and has just finished university, while NOEL CRUZ has a career with over 30 years of experience. I also wanted to bring up artists who are not so famous yet. Actually, some of the well experienced have already had a large success in Europe and USA but the youngest still have a long way to go. This is the first exhibition in Italy to all of them.

"La casa de Ramona" on the left and "Encerrona" on the right,
by Noel Morera Cruz

Noel Cruz has a technique of using the pollution to make his paintings, says Massimiliano. He just sits with his canvas on the bay and the petrol that is spilled in the Gulf becomes his working material.

Q. What is it like to be an artist in Cuba?

"Otro día en la vida de Sara Thornton"
by Maykel Linares, born in 1979

MT: Being an artist in Cuba is the most liked profession by people because it is one of the few that can bring you to a good success in life or income and can give you an opportunity for travelling.

Since the revolution, the government has put a great amount of efforts to support and push the development of the art and the culture in general. They invest a lot in everything that concerns culture. Besides, we are talking about very well educated population.

Q. I've read some of the artist studied in Instituto Superior de Artes in Havana - Can you tell me about it?

On the left side is "Desconectando" by Vladimir De León Llaguno

MT: ISA? This is a large place, a large park with a campus where students live. They come from all over the country and study and live in the institute. There is a lot of space there and they do any kind of art from acting to music.

Q.  How did you come up with the idea for "Senza Confini" exhibition?

"La siesta" by Osvaldo González Aguiar on the left
and "Silicona" by Yunior Acosta on the right

MT: I work in this field in Cuba, organizing exhibitions there, promoting art and thus,  last winter I decided that maybe it was time to do something in Italy, my home country. So I came here and presented a project to the Foundation Palazzo Ducale in Genoa where I come from. The Foundation is one of the most well-reputed cultural institutions in Italy so I wanted to get off on the right foot. My project was approved and thus, I did the exhibition in Palazzo Ducale in the end of September. Then I was contacted by the municipality of Savona. They had seen the exhibition, had liked it and I moved it to Savona too.

Yunior Acosta's "De filósofo a chaman" on the left and
"En el parque 2 (La fuente)" by Niels Reyes

Yunior Acosta's satyr-like sculptures are made with synthetic resin and are hollow inside.

(At this moment a visitor came in to look around and I decided to left Massimiliano to his work with one final question)

Q. Do you have plans to do an exhibition of Cuban art in other countries? 

MT: Yes, definitely.  I have plans to organize individual exhibitions for some of the artists. I will start working on this in the spring next year.

Thank you for taking your time to share your thoughts!

Savona Historical Buildings II: Priamar Fortress

Piazza

Are you fond of medieval fortresses like those in the fantasy novels? I'll show you one in the city of Savona, the Riviera delle Palme.

Alright, when you go ashore from a cruise liner at the Palacrociere which is the cruise port of Savona or get off the train, then you can straightly go to the city historic center and visit it: Priamar Fortress or as Italians call it, La Fortezza del Priamar.

The construction, composed of several levels including underground, corridors, terraces and gardens, and halls, was built between 1542 and 1544 on the ruins of medieval Castle, named Santa Maria. It was a Genoese Fortress in the past. Today it is a hotspot of Savona's cultural and social life.



You can visit an Archaeological Museum, view works of Italian artists, have an afternoon nap at one of the benches or have a coffee at the Fortress' Cafe & Restaurant. Of course, you can just walk around and enjoy the views of the sea and the city. People often use it as a shortcut to the docks ☻ and as a place for dating too...













If you go on the roof you'll find a playground, a place for picnic and an old proud weapon:

You know, every time I go to La Fortezza, I find something new. It's open from 9 am to 6.30 pm all year round. I've never stayed after that hour so I don't know what might happen if you find yourselves locked between the walls.

Anyway, the place is also open for dogs! So you can take there your pet (By the way, Italians go on shopping with their pets!). Just don't forget to clean up after your dog, please.



At nice weather some people love jogging through the Fortress.

I told you, the place is a social hotspot.

Besides that, I think I've seen a wedding ceremony once. It seems to me the tents on the roof are intended for such special occasions. Take a glance:

Yes, medieval castles and fortresses have always been romantic and mysterious to me. I imagine people who lived there and events they witnessed...

Today, some of the events even include entertaining programs for kids at Halloween. What better place than that, ha?

Furthermore, one of the biggest entertainments during the summer, I reckon, are open-air theaters and a significant part of them take place at Piazzale del Maschio within the Fortress, namely the square on the picture:

The Archaeological Museum is located on the right side, just behind the pillars.

All cultural events that take place in Priamar are advertised on the front of it, at the main entrance so you can't miss them.

Well, after this short walkthrough, I hope you'll come to visit La Fortezza del Priamar some day. And you could even leave a sign on its medieval walls or benches ☻ Who knows... No bad intention to encourage misbehavior though.

And if you have ever visited medieval castles or fortresses, I'd like to invite you to share them here with a link and short description, or you can send me a picture and I will share it with the public for you.

Beaches of Liguria - continuing

Mare

I just love breakers crashing against rocks. Like most of you, I believe.

This was one of the most astonishing breakers I had ever enjoyed. We were standing at a rocky breakwater trying not to fall into the sea (I still can't swim), watching how waves were breaking on the wall of the road. I'm telling you, the water is about to undermine its foundation.

The road I'm talking about is SS1, direction: Genova, at Riviera Ligure di Ponente.

This is an awesome way to go. And what's more, you can travel by walk from Savona to here and even farther. Cool, isn't it? You see those two men at the top right corner I accidentally shot on my photo:

Well, they stayed at the embankment next to SS1 which was right above the shore. I also loved the benches at the embankment - you could just sit there, have a drink and enjoy the view (and sounds).



And since the theme is about beaches after all, the one "behind the scene" is Celle Ligure's. The beach was quite narrow at this end and it seemed to me that the waves were trying to flood us. So you walk really carefully and tightly to the wall, which can be fun indeed.☻



If you wonder, Celle is a neighboring town to Savona you can reach by walk. It has gained a Blue Flag which is an indicator for commune's sustainable tourism development, improvement of life quality and care for the ecosystem...

We traveled a bit further and then came back through a tunnel where there was an exhibition of "math artists!" No kidding.

I'll try to illustrate what it was about:

Well, some of the works resembled such kind of number mosaics (but colorful graphics and lithographs, though). Can you guess what this table is?...





Back at the sea promenade we saw a signboard of a surf school. Kitesurfing, windsurfing, surfing & sailing are popular sports in the town but I heard that surfing was a bit risky because the spot was located close by a cliff. Waves break in front of it and arrive at the beach. Anyway, if you are fond of it, check out web portals like Windfinder.

So, this is all about Celle Ligure for now. Next time I'll tell you something about Riviera delle Palme. Wait for it!

P.S. By the way you'll hardly find pizza if you visit the town out of the season, especially at lunch time.

Beaches of Liguria

Mare

In a sunny day after the stormy Halloween, we headed toward Spotorno and next to it we found Noli.

So if you dream for long beaches and medieval castles, these small towns in Riviera di Ponente are just for you. Riviera di Ponente or the "Coast of the setting sun" is a Ligurian area between Genoa and the French border.

Besides, the road that crosses it is one of the most beautiful in Europe, I reckon. This is Via Aurelia or SS1 on the road maps. Even just driving on it worth the effort. It goes all the way along the sea and takes you to Sanremo, and is popular for road cycling.

Bike route 542828 - powered by Bikemap 

Check out all bike routes in the region at Bikemap.

There were lots of cars and bicyclers coming and going in both directions. We passed by a bunch of chopper riders on the way surrounded by high vertical cliffs, deep blue sea and medieval towers on the hills - guards of honor. A crooked and winding road - this is Via Aurelia and a dream for every adventurer. I was totally captivated by the roadside views and simply wanted to get off the car and continue by walk but it wasn't possible.

And so we reached Spotorno: a small and poor coastal country in an ancient times, often a subject of bitter disputes between the powerful neighboring municipalities - Savona & Noli, now it is a top tourist destination in the Italian Riviera.

And there is a reason for this: pure water and long beaches, a labyrinth of narrow streets and cozy little shops and cafes. It seemed to me that the whole city life was on the streets - social gatherings, hairdressers, craftsmen. You had the feeling that everyone knows everybody.

Spotorno's life has always been tightly connected to the sea. In the past, boats transported goods like wine, paintings and lemons to Sicily, Sardinia and France. Now a view of fishermen on the beach is a common scene.

This sausage dog, with his back to me, was a little curious creature and I knew the representatives of the breed were brave hunters.

The island on the picture is Bergeggi and on the shore against it you can find one of the purest blue beaches in the region. What's more, you can reach it by walk from Spotorno.

The beach was empty then but I bet it's full with people during the season. However, you must watch out for your dignity: There was a sign on the promenade which informed that walking around the town in a swimsuit is strictly prohibited!

Well...

Here's a greeting from Spotorno friend, full of joy as the city itself:

And then comes Noli: steep streets, gloomy castles, lots of olive trees and uncommonly tranquil place to be in November.

We entered a church there. It was empty and silent, preparing for a service that was going to begin in 30 minutes. A nun passed by and greeted us on the main entrance. The whole place had an aura of something magnificent, romantic and melancholic at the same time (unlike the cheerful Spotorno).

You know, although the temple looked at the beach and a sea alley, and there wasn't any kind of sign to indicate that hanging around in a swimwear was restricted, I couldn't quite imagine to show up in a swimming costume around it...

So we crossed the main street, that was Via Aurelia, and there it was - a choppy dark blue-green sea and big foaming waves! It attracted me like a magnet.

Our Spotorno friend told us afterwards that this was the town with the most peaceful and transparent blue waters around the west coast of Liguria. Yet, that day we saw a splendid wavy sea (due to the autumn weather, my best guess).

If you are curious about the town, the name "Noli" has a Greek origin and means "new city". Its story tells us, and this is a less-known fact, that the village (slightly less than 3000 citizens nowadays) was an ancient maritime republic. It is even considered that Christopher Columbus took "lezioni di mare" (lessons of the sea) here in year 1474!

Mare: You should know that you can easily sink into deep water at the Ligurian beaches for reason of the sea slope. So if you prefer shallow water, then you might want to visit the east coast of Italy.

In order to plan your Vacanza at Liguria, just browse a tour guide like TripAdvisor.

☼

Italian Lesson II

Exercise yourself

This time you are going to learn common computer jargon in Italian. Here's how:

-are- is the most frequent verb stem in the Italian language. Thus, click with a mouse is:

cliccare

Browse in internet is:

browsare

And chat with a friend becomes:

chattare

As easy as that!

Now when you have this knowledge with you, guess the following (There's a pitfall!):

1. downlod_ _ _


2. debug_ _ _ _


3. program_ _ _ _

And if you want to call your grandma, you'll just telefonare.

♦♦♦

Savona historical buildings I: Villa Zanelli

Piazza

First time I saw it, the day was cold and windy and we were walking along the beach: Villa Zanelli. 

It is so amazingly beautiful and breathtaking that you can just stay there and gaze at it. So it worth it to tell you its story:

La storia della Villa:

Villa Zanelli was built in 1907 as a residence of a sea captain called Nicolo Zanelli in the outskirts of Savona. This fabulous building was work of Gottardo Gussoni, a student of Pietro Fenoglio who was one of the most significant engineers and architects of the Italian Art Nouveau (Modern Style in UK). Now the Villa is also known as a "sea whale sanctuary" and a shining example of the Arte Liberty.

Zanelli's family lived in the Villa until 1933 when they sold it to Municipality of Milan. The villa had direct communication with the sea. Cement and stone flowers stood against the waves and the sea water filled the flowers' beds.

During the Second World War it was used as a field hospital. You can still see red crosses on its walls.

It functioned as a center for treatment of heart disease from 1967 until 1998. The degradation of the building led to collapse of one of the ceilings in the first floor. Since then the beauty has been staying abandoned.

Have a closer look:

On such an out-of-the-season day, when I took these pictures, the beach was almost deserted. A caterpillar tractor was hurrying to raise levees (a greeting for fans) on the beach. When I went back I saw that the levees blocked my way. A sad feeling might come upon you at such a moment. I really hope that debates on the Villa Zanelli's future will end at its full restoration and shine.

Mediterranean Cruise

Mare

It's sunny again after a stormy Sunday. So why not going cruising in the Mediterranean!
One of the biggest attractions of city of Savona is pleasure boating. Here we go.

Would you like to get on a ship like this? You can cruise around the Mediterranean with it.

You can take Grande offerte in the autumn. Check them out with Costa Crociere, a cruise company which manages the passenger terminal in the port of Savona, or with Corsica Ferries.

Place of departure: Savona. A few words about it.

Happily situated between mountains and sea, divided into old and new city, Savona is part of Liguria Region and the inviting Riviera. Its cruise port, Savona Vado, was expanded in 2008 with a new quay.



One of the symbols of the city is a clock tower which stands at the Old Dock. It is called Torre Leon Pancaldo after the ship navigator. However, the locals just call it "Torretta" - little tower in Italian.

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No grief and no moaning over the passing summer. The autumn is also intriguing and the sea appealing.

Peperoncino - The Chili Peper

Exercise Yourself
Called viagra naturale (it undoubtedly owes it to its shape),
His Majesty the Peperoncino is very popular in the country of Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Christopher Columbus. The later first brought it here from the New World.

Peperoncino Rosso Piccante: put it in a salad, soup, spaghetti, sauce for pasta and fish. As you wish. In any case you can use it for tomato salad and sauce.

I am astonished by the wide variety of peperoncino they have. And I was truly astounded, stuck and dazed by the unthinkable degree at which one of these was hot and chili. It was my deception to put a generous amount of it in a dish and thus, I sent my boyfriend into genuine amazement.

So beware of the type and the quantity of the spice in a place like

Italia where you can see even chili peppers made of plastic and displayed in bookstores as decoration.

So, as I said before, you can prepare a tomato salad with it (originally from Sicily). Ingredients:

Tomatoes
Peperoncino ,

Aglio e Olio (NOT spaghetti)
Croutons
Salt

Be bold.

The Mare & The Whales

Mare   Amare

Let me tell you about a shore of a sea where whales mate in the summer. The breeding takes place in a region called Pelagos Sanctuary.

The Boats

The Fishermen

They are always there: alone, couples, partying. Fathers and sons.

The Mare & The Wave

                        

They say the sea becomes really stormy in the winter and therefore, raise dikes on the beach in October. I hope levees won't break. ☻

The Play

You can go for a whale watching trip in the summer between July and early September. You can go for a scuba-dive, it's quite deep.

Locals will tell you about an idle beach on the opposite coast against Bergeggi Island where the road leads to San Remo and you can go by bike enjoying the view.

You can fall in love like the bush above.